Ceahlău, Cheile Bicazului & Lacu Roșu

Ceahlău is Moldavia's emblematic mountain — a ship of stone rising alone above the hills and the waters of the Bistrița, its silhouette recognisable from dozens of kilometres away. Beside it, the Bicaz Gorges cut a vertical limestone canyon, and at its far end glitters Lacu Roșu, the natural dam lake born from a collapsed hillside. Three landmarks, one spectacular region.

What it is and why it's worth it Ceahlău National Park protects the high plateau and its summits, among them Toaca Peak, with its sharp profile and wide panorama. To the south, Cheile Bicazului–Hășmaș National Park takes in the Bicaz Gorges, one of the most dramatic canyons in the Carpathians, and Lacu Roșu, the mirror of water with petrified trunks breaking the surface. It's a rare pairing of legendary massif and spectacular geology.

When to go Summer (June–September) opens the Ceahlău plateau for hikes and views, while the Bicaz canyon is at its best on clear days. Autumn brings memorable colour to the slopes. In winter, the Durău ski area, at the foot of the mountain, offers family skiing and quiet. Weather on the ridge shifts in minutes — check the mountain forecast and note Salvamont before climbing.

What to do The classic routes climb to the plateau: Durău – Toaca on the northern flank, and Izvoru Muntelui – Dochia, with a stop at Cabana Dochia, the heart of the plateau. Set aside a day for the Bicaz Gorges and the shores of Lacu Roșu. All variants are on the trails hub, the highlights on the attractions list, and route ideas on itineraries.

Getting there, where to stay DN15 links Bicaz to Durău and Poiana Teiului; DN12C runs spectacularly through the gorges to Lacu Roșu — check conditions on the roads page and on the map. Lodging is split between guesthouses in Durău and Izvoru Muntelui and hotels, with meals at local restaurants. From here Bucovina and the Harghita–Covasna area are close by.

Practical note: the Ceahlău plateau has no shelter over long stretches and the wind is often strong — start early and carry windproof gear and water.